Sweet Creams!

Ice cream cravings of the Capital Region, or confessions of a sweet tooth in exile

 

If it drips down my arm, I won’t care. If I feel that icy, sweet pain in my teeth, or the pinch of brain freeze, I will not be deterred. It’s hot and I’m in for the official cold treat of summertime: ice cream.

I owe my love of local ice cream to a dear friend who has tasted it all. He is my corhort, with whom I tour these places. Our trips for ice cream are my official signal that summertime is here. Now, I confess, since moving one state south, I get to enjoy the bountiful offerings of Capital Region ice-cream stands only on special occasions, but distance has made me appreciate the plentitude of stands even more. So I implore you, dear reader, to take advantage! But with so many choices, how does one choose where to go? In many ways it’s up to your mood and needs.

Today is a scorcher, and it’s all I can do to keep from driving for six hours for the homemade taste of Dairy Haus in Saratoga Springs. It’s not a flashy or spectacular place, but it’s got what I want: black raspberry and lemon swirl soft-serve ice cream, the ultimate in refreshment. It’s particularly for times when I’d be likely to seek out sorbet, but it’s so much better. It’s an added bonus that there are big wooden swings outside Dairy Haus to share on with friends.

When I’m in the mood for a dip, I head to Central Avenue in Colonie. And when I say dip, I’m not talking about swimming, people. I am talking about that waxy magic coating that can hold soft serve in place on even the most scorching days. I cannot resist a cherry dip on vanilla soft serve at Kurver Kreme. Plus, they’ve got a great old sign worthy of the avenue, which, by the way, is also true of the Snowman in Troy. (What’s cooler to see than a snowman in June?)

If easy access is what you’re in for, Stewart’s is an excellent option, and you won’t break the bank. The good people at Stewart’s have been doing ice cream since the 1940s, so I trust their experience. I tend to pick amusing flavors there like Cotton Candy or Crumbs Along the Mohawk (graham cracker and caramel). But my ultimate is Fireworks: vanilla ice cream with a cherry swirl and pop-rocks. Whoa. I should also note that Stewart’s is my favorite place for a milkshake. Any of the coffee-oriented flavors can double as a dose of caffeine. This is crutch on those pavement-melting days of July when reaching for hot coffee proves your hopeless addiction. (I give you permission to have a coffee milkshake with breakfast.)

If you’re up for a challenge, however, trek up to Moxie’s Ice Cream in Troy, the home of the Blue Moon. Blue Moon is a mystery flavor that keeps patrons guessing, which apparently no one ever has. Still, if you correctly guess what Blue Moon is made of, the staff apparently will confirm the ingredients. Go venture a guess, because it’s amazingly tasty. The folks at Moxie’s make all of their creations using vintage equipment.

Moxie’s is part of a long tradition of roadside stands. Two other stands I love are Farmer’s Daughter and the Ice Cream Man. The Ice Cream Man is a favorite, first because its hard and soft ice cream is homemade and comes in a bevy of tasty flavors, and it’s a log cabin so it gets points for ambiance. Farmer’s Daughter is a farmer’s version of a drive-in where eaters bask in its sunny spot.

But perhaps, for you, ice cream is not a meal alone. When I want to make lunch out of a trip for ice cream, Jumpin’ Jack’s in Scotia is the place. It’s a drive-in by the Mohawk that’s a longtime favorite of mine, not only because of the burgers, but because of their blueberry soft-serve. But be advised, they rotate flavors, and while they’re all yummy, you might show up wanting blueberry and find pistachio. (I have been known to call in advance.) Do know that there are no dips here, and locals encourage you to bite the bottom off the cone and suck the ice cream through the drippy bottom. Good, messy fun for all!

Now if swanky ice cream is what you’re in for, my father is my best arbitor of taste. He is a vanilla ice cream connoisseur, a snob, even. Then he tried Chez Sophie’s ice cream made with fresh cream, and real snobbery was born. It’s simply perfection: blossoming with vanilla and sweetly creamy. It is that to which all other vanilla ice cream will be compared.

There are also great options for gelato and Italian ices locally, but I’m smitten with ice cream stands. I could swoon over more of them, but let’s just say that there is much to sample out there, and you should not be bashful about pulling over for a treat. Surprise yourself. It’s sort of like buying lemonade from kids on the roadside; the mere act of stopping for ice cream makes me feel youthful, relaxed and as though I’m making time to enjoy something summery. But don’t take my word for it, go forth and taste summer for yourself.

—Ashley Hahn

Among the sound options for sweet treats: Dairy Haus, 476 Maple Ave., Saratoga Springs; Farmers’ Daughter, Route 29, Saratoga Springs; Ice Cream Man, Route 29, Easton; Jumpin’ Jack’s, 5 Schonowee Ave., Scotia; Kurver Kreme, 1349 Central Ave., Colonie; Moxie’s, Troy; the Snowman, 251 Fifth Ave., Troy.

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