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FOOD & DRINK
Note to readers:
The following Best Of selections were compiled by Metroland
staff members; Readers’ Poll results can be found in the Aug. 4
issue of Metroland.
Best Restaurant
Café Capriccio
49 Grand St.,
Albany
We celebrate
the decades-long legacy of this consistently excellent eatery in
which northern Italian traditions are reinterpreted by owner-paterfamilias
Jim Rua and chef Jennifer Hewes. The new Tuscan Room expansion adds
another dining dimension, and the upstairs room remains, as always,
the best spot for a small party.
Best International
Tiznow
84 Henry St.,
Saratoga Springs
Saratoga’s
Henry Street is booming, and Tiznow—named for a racehorse, of course—is
owner John Costanzo’s elegant French-Asian-American-What Have You
fusion of comfortable dining and a place at which to enjoy a good
beer and lively conversation.
Best French
Chez Sophie
Bistro
2853 Route
9, Malta
They’ve been
in this modified old-fashioned diner for a decade, and owners Paul
Parker and Cheryl Clark continue to honor a legacy of superior French
and French-inspired dining using local produce and gifted flights
of the imagination.
Best Italian
(Gourmet)
Café Capriccio
49 Grand St.,
Albany
See under “Best
Restaurant.”
Best Italian
(Family)
Testo’s
124th Street
and Fourth Avenue, N. Troy
An institution
since 1976. Testo’s is as renowned in Lansingburgh as Uncle Sam’s
grave. Mom and Pop Testo still make their famous handmade meatballs
every morning, and the incredible—and inexpensive—menu features
traditional Italian fare, along with specialties such as baked haddock,
eggplant parmigiana, veal and peppers, and delicious daily specials.
Plus, the loyal, energetic staff (including all of the Testo children)
provides impeccable service. A great place for the whole family.
Best Vegetarian
(Italian)
Antipasto’s
1028 Route
146, Clifton Park
So you’re halfway
through your pizza or your pasta dish or your giant calzone and
it occurs to you: There’s no meat in this. Stealth vegetarian, that’s
the Antipasto’s way, and owners Steve Zumbo and Sal Andriano have
devised a menu (and wine list) that’s been popular for nearly 10
years.
Best Vegetarian
(Asian)
Emperor’s
10 Wolf Road,
Colonie
There’s a breakout
vegetarian column on the lengthy menu, and it’s as good an array
of meat-free cooking as you’re going to find in the region. This
place has always had an edge on authenticity, and at its current
location it fights the sea of chain joints and buffet houses with
the kind of food you usually see only in a good urban Chinatown.
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Best Vegetarian
(Deli)
Honest Weight
Food Co-op
484 Central
Ave., Albany
You knew it
was the place to go to get organic brown rice in bulk, but did you
know it was also the spot to stop in for a quick lunch? HWFC’s deli
usually offers two soups and six to 10 prepared salads that will
stick to your ribs and tantalize your tongue. Highlights include
a wheat-berry-and-dried-fruit salad, sesame soba noodles, and spicy
sweet potatoes with coconut—never a drab, unflavored moment. And
good for you, by almost any of the widely varying definitions of
good for you. What more can you ask? Fresh juices and a small bakery
case round out your meal if you’re so inclined.
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Best Restaurant
Worth a Drive (North)
Friends Lake
Inn
Friends Lake
Road, Chestertown
Such promise
of friendship! Yet that’s exactly what you find here, where hosts
Sharon and Greg Taylor have fashioned a restaurant that offers imaginative
American fare in a lovely setting (with equally lovely accommodations)
with a wine cellar second to none (see also under “Best Wine List”).
Best Restaurant
Worth a Drive (South)
New World Home
Cooking Co.
1411 Route
212, Saugerties
We checked
out chef-owner Ric Orlando’s outpost of brilliantly original eating
not long ago and it’s like entering a nonstop party in progress.
The food is sweet, it’s spicy; it has grass-fed beef, it’s vegetarian,
it’s vegan. It’s American, it’s Caribbean, it’s Asian. One thing’s
for sure: it’s satisfying.
Best Restaurant
Worth a Drive (West)
George Mann
Tory Tavern
Routes 30 and
443, Schoharie
Ralph and Irmgard
Buess maintain this beautifully restored house where he designs
and prepares a menu of new and old-world American cuisine, which
is served by a staff costumed to reflect the heritage of the place.
A step back in time just a little bit west.
Best Continental
Nicole’s Bistro
at Quackenbush Square
633 Broadway,
Albany
It’s the 10th
anniversary for this formidable restaurant, where owner Nicole Plisson
continues to uphold very fine standards in food and service. Chef
Daniel E. Smith offers a menu of inventive continental fare that
works well in the surroundings, whether in the landmark building
itself or the nicely appointed patio outside.
Best Barbecue
(Smoked)
The Pig Pit
84 Ontario
St., Cohoes
It’s a craving
like no other, and only the real thing can cure it. Dave Frazier
is back—he ran Tex’s on Central Avenue some years back—with a hole-in-the-wall
barbecue joint where you can get a kickin’ pulled pork sandwich
along with other essential smoked-meat fare. It looks like a deli,
but you can smell the smoke from the sidewalk.
Best Barbecue
(Grilled)
PJ’s Saratoga
Style Bar-B-Q
Route 9, Saratoga
Springs
Northern, which
is to say grilled barbecue, has its most enthusiastic proponent
in PJ and family, whose seasonal operation has grown to include
a house brand of loganberry soda as well as DJ entertainment featuring
vintage songs. Get the chicken and ribs combo, enjoy the tunes,
and take a trip into the past.
Best Burger
Oliver’s Café
181 Freeman’s
Bridge Road, Glenville
We’ve been
preaching the Gospel of the Book of Oliver for several years, and
are pleased to note that more and more people are heeding the word
and heading to Oliver’s for those meaty, well-crafted burgers and
hand-cut fries. And just try to find a medium-rare burger at most
other places these days.
Best Wine List
(Encyclopaedic)
Friends Lake
Inn
Friends Lake
Road, Chestertown
It’s not just
the list anymore: it’s a handsome cellar, it’s the way the list
(in its long and short forms) is integrated into your dining experience;
it’s the very knowledgeable and completely non-intimidating wine
experts who will ease the task of choosing from such a formidable
selection, and it’s the all-around niceness of the place.
Best Wine List
(One Page)
Cafe Capriccio
47 Grand St.,
Albany
In the fall,
Café Capriccio owner Jim Rua will take you to Fattoria Lavacchio
in Tuscany where you can help out during the grape harvest. Then
when you dine at the restaurant, you can enjoy a bottle of wine
to which you contributed. It’s that kind of hands-on affection that
makes the brief list here so impressive.
Best Wine by
the Glass
The Ginger
Man
234 Western
Ave., Albany
Taste your
wine in flights, by geography or merely by whim. The Ginger Man
will accommodate you. They’re pouring upwards of 30 different types
of a given evening, and you probably could plead your way into more
if you’re that enthusiastic. The point is, everything here, including
the menu, is geared to make your toping as enjoyable and informative
as possible.
Best Hot Dogs
Mike’s Restaurant
1135 Erie Blvd.,
Schenectady
Not far from
the railroad overpass, Mike’s is a long, one-story building with
a long, formica-topped counter and a row of vintage diner stools.
Order a couple of dogs all the way, listen for the molten hiss of
your fries plunging into the hot oil, and if you time it right,
you’ll see another vat of the famous meat sauce emerge from the
kitchen.
Best Steak
Sandwich
Morette’s King
Steak House
1126 Erie Blvd.,
Schenectady
Look at the
photos lining the walls of this longtime Schenectady favorite and
you get a feel for the era it seeks to reproduce, when a steak sandwich
was a workingman’s filet mignon and you could even get cheese melted
across it. A full menu of sandwiches and other items, and save room
for dessert.
Best Place
to Go When Someone Else is Paying
Sargo’s
Saratoga National
Golf Club, 485 Union Ave., Saratoga Springs
Golfing has
a hierarchy all its own, and when you’re good enough to play the
costly courses, you want your sense of wealth enhanced by the trappings
of the club. Chef Larry Schepici holds up the kitchen end with an
excellent fine dining menu, and when you sink into one of the oversized
chairs and enjoy the attentive service, you’ll know you’ve arrived.
Best American
Justin’s
301 Lark St.,
Albany
Ownership has
changed, but Justin’s has not. Under the new ownership of John DeJohn,
Justin’s is still offering an inventive menu of nouveau American
fare, which includes such favorites as ropa vieja and Jamaican
jerk chicken as well as mushroom ravioli, Cajun peppered shrimp
and duckling with a minted orange glaze.
Best Lunch
(Power)
Jack’s Oyster
House
42 State St.,
Albany
Jack’s awaits
like an old family retainer, faithful, reliable and with unexpected
surprises. Still going strong after nearly 90 years, its old-fashioned
dining room reminds you of the days when big-time power brokers
walked the Albany streets and dined in this restaurant, and you
can lay claim to some of that history by closing a deal or two here.
Best Lunch
(Casual)
Iron Gate Cafe
182 Washington
Ave., Albany
We almost gave
them Best Sandwich, but then we remembered that the Iron Gate has
knockout salads and soups as well, and decided to bump them up to
this more complementary title. They’ve wowed us for the last two
years straight; we’ll keep an eye on them for the three-peat.
Best Lunch
(Family)
Peter Pause
Restaurant
535 Nott St.,
Schenectady
Get there after
the first lunch surge but before they close the doors at 2 PM and
you might get a table. Bruno & Lucy Sacchetti having
been serving breakfast and lunch at this intimate location for decades,
and it’s a winning formula. Daily specials complement a menu of
hearty Italian and traditional favorites.
Best New Restaurant
Lorenzo’s
1733 Van Vranken
Ave., Schenectady
It’s a new
venture for CIA-trained chef Daniel DeLorenzo, who has taken over
the old Cornell’s space and offers a menu of northern Italian-inspired
cookery that’s unique to the area and bound to quickly gain fans.
Try the risotto Milanese with duck confit or the prosciutto-wrapped
salmon and you’ll see what we mean.
Best Fusion
DeJohn’s Restaurant
& Pub
288 Lark St.,
Albany
It’s a fusion
of more than just menu items. The food is varied and terrific, and
you can sample it on one of several dining levels if you don’t choose
the outdoor patio. The look of the place also changes from floor
to floor, but the level of service stays the same, which is superior.
The kind of fusion we need to see more of in restaurants.
Best Italian
Ices
Civitello’s
Spumoni Shop
42 North Jay
St., Schenectady
Schenectady
is trying to concentrate a Little Italy into Civitello’s neighborhood,
and that’s due to a large extent to the longevity of places like
this, where the seasonal homemade Italian ices can provoke lines
out the door. You can have lunch here, then sample the great ices,
but don’t forget to try the spumoni, too!
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Best Ice Cream
The Ice Cream
Man
417 State Route
29, Easton
What started
in the early ’80s as a homemade summer-only ice cream stand has
become a year-round establishment with indoor seating and offerings
of the savory lunch variety. Their ice creams, though, are what
make them a stopping point for anyone heading east or west on Route
29 between Greenwich and Schuylerville. A sign out front now also
proclaims “Custard is here!” Note: Don’t be afraid of the long line
visible out front—not only does it move quickly, but you can also
order inside, where there’s never much of a line. (Of course, that
little secret is now out.)
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Best Ice Cream
Parlor
Fariello’s
Confectionary
43 Lincoln
Ave., Amsterdam
It was opened
in 1925 as an ice cream parlor, and even after Sam Fariello sold
the business, the feel of it was preserved. Now Gary Castler is
at the helm, and he’s kept the old soda fountain, the counter and
stools and the vintage booths, not to mention the menu of great
sundaes (homemade hot fudge is a marvel) and all that candy that
surrounds the room.
Best Deli (Old
World)
Gershon’s Deli
1600 Union
St., Schenectady
So you can
get a sandwich of pastrami or turkey or corned beef, and you can
get it in various combinations, but you still can’t put your finger
on what makes the sandwich so much more than just bread and meat
and a few extras. That’s the genius of a good deli, and this one
has been exercising that genius since before you were born.
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Best Deli (Old-World
Italian)
Andy &
Sons
256 Delaware
Ave., Albany
When you walk
through the door, the first thing you see is hanging cured meats
and cheeses. Next your nostrils are assaulted with more aromas than
can be differentiated. And then you’re greeted with a mighty “How
are ya, what can we get for ya?” Now that’s Italian. All dishes
are prepared on the premises. Vinnie and Carmen Benincasa, once
the sons, are now the owners, and now their sons are the sons. Homemade
meatballs, hot and sweet sausage and so much more. For example:
boccancini (fresh mozz in oils and herbs), caponata (pickled eggplant),
antipasto, olives, cheeses, homemade pasta and to top it all off
homemade cannolis.
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Best Desserts
(Gourmet)
Mrs. London’s
464 Broadway,
Saratoga Springs
These are sweets
you admire in the case and then can’t forget as you stroll along
Broadway thinking, “I don’t need dessert . . . I don’t need dessert
. . . need dessert . . . I need dessert,” and then you’re back,
hovering in front of that case once more, almost sure some parent
figure is going to materialize and shoo you away. And then you get
the treat and you dip into it at your table and then . . . ahhh.
Best Desserts
(Sinful)
Debbie’s Kitchen
456 Madison
Ave., Albany
In a word:
Yum. Blond brownies, giant chewy chocolate chip cookies, scrumptious
bread puddings with inventive ingredients, melt-in-your-mouth cakes,
gooey pies. . . . We could go on all day. Debbie’s Kitchen consistently
tops all others for providing us with yummy, tastebud-pleasing sweets.
Best Mediterranean
(Gourmet)
Chameleon on
the Lake
251 County
Route 67, Saratoga Springs
Richard Rodriguez
positions his lakeside restaurant as an ever-changing thing, but
we’ve found it to be consistently excellent and consistently imaginative
in its offerings, for which Mediterranean is as good a label as
any but hardly describes dishes like the Moroccan lamb loin with
mango salsa and couscous.
Best Mediterranean
(Family)
The Hidden
Café
Delaware Plaza,
Delaware Avenue, Delmar
Seek this out,
ye of the jaded palate, and discover what chef-owner Joseph Soliman
has up his sleeve. There are standbys like hummus and falafel and
feta, but the menu goes well beyond that into a realm of terrific
entrées, served in welcoming surroundings.
Best Middle
Eastern
Ali Baba
2243 15th St.,
Troy
Most of the
tables give a view of the brick oven, in which your puffy lavash
loaf will rise before its steaming goodness is hurried to your table.
Real gyros, excellent kebabs, and even an imaginative take on pizza.
Our runner-up: Anatolia, a larger establishment at 880 Second Ave.,
Troy.
Best Steakhouse
The Bears’
Route 7, Duanesburg
It’s not only
a haven for steak lovers; it’s also a trip back in time to old-fashioned,
elegant dining, in the home of Bob Payne, who runs it with his wife
and sons. The menu is about steak, steak, and more steak, but the
37-year legacy of the place also makes it an example of how to run
a restaurant.
Best Chinese
Emperor’s
10 Wolf Road,
Colonie
See “Best Vegetarian
(Asian).”
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Mmm, green
curry: Sushi Thai Garden.
photo:John
Whipple
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Best Thai
Sushi Thai
Garden
44 Phila St.,
Saratoga Springs
There’s a whole
Japanese thing going on here as well, but it’s the place to go for
a wonderful green curry or pad Thai or any of a number of classical
Thai dishes—and how nice that you can also get a great sushi selection,
too. Another Saratoga restaurant jewel.
Best Japanese
Saso’s Noodle
House
218 Central
Avenue, Albany
Oh, those noodle
soups. With Restaurant Saigon now a memory, there’s no competition
for a bowl of noodle-enhanced broth with a variety of extras—or
any of the other traditional Japanese items on the menu, including
a sushi bar manned by Saso himself.
Best Sushi
Sushi House
6 New Scotland
Ave., Albany
This place
has been one of Albany’s best-kept secrets, but we can’t keep it
to ourselves any longer. The sushi at this location is adventurous,
unique, and of course something that need not be mentioned—very
fresh. The chef’s special rolls are works of art. For instance,
the Fantasy Roll is tuna, salmon, yellowtail, white fish, real crab,
avocado and massago wrapped with a cucumber, beautiful and so fresh
you’ll be looking for a close-by ocean. They also have a roll that’s
topped with mango or strawberry, kind of like dessert sushi, plus
a full Japanese menu.
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Best Mexican
El Mariachi
II
289 Hamilton
St., Albany
It’s not unusual
to find good Mexican food and good Spanish food under one roof.
However, it is unusual when both cuisine types are great and
very traditional. El Mariachi’s brother-and-sister team have combined
old family recipes that are very authentic and delicious, all in
a very bright welcoming atmosphere. The patio is also a nice spot
in the city to enjoy a pitcher of sangria or margaritas.
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Best Vietnamese
My Linh
272 Delaware
Ave, Albany
For a restaurant
operating on busy Delaware Avenue, My Linh offers a surprisingly
simple, soft and pleasant atmosphere. You can try to pronounce the
names of the dishes on the menu, but do not fret if your server
must help you! The authentic preparations include choices for meat,
seafood or veggie lovers. A sweet and slightly spicy nuoc mam accompanies
dishes such as salmon or duck and is a must try traditional Vietnamese
sauce. A unique dessert menu is the perfect accompaniment to the
simple and beautiful dishes you’ve already been served and enjoyed.
Try a cup of coffee as well; you may not have had it like this before!
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An intimate
delight: Antica Enoteca.
photo:Joe
Putrock
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Best Wine Grotto
Antica Enoteca
200 Lark St.,
Albany
You enter this
basement wine bar under stairs, where you encounter a magical world
of beautifully refinished wood and exposed brick, a cozy array of
tables and barstools, and wine, wine, wine. Bottles everywhere,
and enough selections by the glass to satisfy almost any taste (there’s
beer, too, as well as fruit and cheese and sometimes other finger
foods). Since last year, the space has been doubled and a lovely
outdoor pation has been added, but the original intimacy remains
intact—in fact, the backroom tables are so tucked away that you
could spend hours at one of them without the rest of the patrons
even knowing you’re there.
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Best Greek
Aegean Breeze
327 Stockbridge
Road, Great Barrington, Mass.
Enjoy delicious
Greek fare in a handsome dining room or on the enclosed wrap-around
porch. Start with the exquisite dips and/or other succulent appetizers
(the fried cheese, and oh, the meatballs), then move on to an entrée
such as moussaka, spanikopita or roasted meat, or the roasted fish
dishes that have southern Berkshire County all abuzz.
Best Coffee
Mezzo
340 Hamilton
St., Albany
It’s just soooo
rich and flavorful. Maybe it’s because each cup is brewed individually
in that newfangled machine they have; apparently it has something
to do with pressuring the water through the freshly ground beans,
but we can’t see inside it, so there’s no proof. And there’s only
one machine. So if a whole bunch of you readers and see this and
decide to stop there for your morning coffee, there’s going to be
. . . umm . . . a line—now you wouldn’t that to happen, would you?
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Best Breakfast
Café Madison
1108 Madison
Ave., Albany
Formerly known
as Madison’s End Café, which was formerly known as Qualter’s (and
is still lovingly referred to as such by devoted fans who are heartily
relieved that the menu hasn’t changed with the ownership), the only
downside of this surprisingly affordable spot is that it doesn’t
take reservations. But after a taste of their raspberry-oatmeal
pancakes, rosemary eggs benedict with spinach, freshly baked breads,
or any one of their signature omelettes, you won’t mind hanging
out for a little while before you get your seat.
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Best Coffeehouse
Professor Java’s
Coffee Sanctuary
217 Wolf Road,
Colonie
Java’s reminds
us so much of the old Schenectady Caffe Dolce that we don’t even
miss the old haunt. Plenty of room to stretch your legs and read
a book (or magazine, or newspaper), play board games, chat about
international politics or online gaming, and get to know the very
people with whom you’ll be wasting your late teens and early 20s.
And, uh, they serve coffee, too.
Best Pizza
Fireside Pizzeria
& Sandwich Pub
1631 Eastern
Parkway, Schenectady
The Fireside
seems to have been here forever, and that’s a good thing. The pizza
is incredibly good, with a sweet, chewy crust, and it’s as good
whether you order a small one for the two of you or a couple of
trays for a party. When dining in, there’s a menu also offering
excellent soups and entrées.
De Fazio’s
Pizzeria
266 Fourth
St., Troy
Look at the
store next door and you see that DeFazio’s takes the business of
sauce seriously. At the pizzeria, you add fresh dough and hot ovens
and a talent for assembling a pie that keeps ’em flying out the
door.
DePietro’s
(Italiano’s)
555 Washington
Ave., Albany
DePietro’s
red pizza is excellent, but we’re awarding this one for their white
pizza alone. The usual ingredients—a thin, powdered crust; fresh
mozzarella and crushed garlic—are set off by a thin layer of ricotta
cheese beneath the mozzarella, not clumped on top. Toppings
like broccoli and tomatoes are fresh, too, and not oven-burnt. And
lest you think your slice is a bit greasy, that’s actually the olive
oil in which the garlic was marinated. This ain’t health food, but
it’s a damn good pie.
Testo’s
124th Street
and Fourth Avenue, N. Troy
If you grew
up in North Troy or the surrounding communities, Testo’s is the
standard bearer for incredible pizza. Mention Testo’s pizza to any
longtime Trojan and their mouth will water. They use only the best
ingredients: homemade dough, fresh packed tomatoes and 100 percent
whole-milk mozzarella. Try the Chuck special white pizza with sausage
and onion. Mmmmm.
Lou-Bea’s
376 Delaware
Ave., Albany
A frequent
winner in this category, and a consistently delicious pizza pie.
What more can we say?
Best Sandwiches
Mezzo
340 Hamilton
St., Albany
Tired of sandwiches
so overstuffed with whatever that eating them is tantamount to a
juggling act? Of soggy or cardboardish bread that fails to support
the goodness within? Mezzo, the new gourmet food market tucked into
the old Unlimited Feast space on Hamilton Street, beckons to all
sandwichs afficianados with a daily array of delicious fixings like
braciola, prosciutto, roasted peppers, fresh greens, exquisite cheeses,
etc., done up on high-quality and delicious bread. Eat them as is
or ask to have your selection grilled. The Mezzo sandwiches are
that rare blend of homey nourishment, dazzling taste, good value
and perfect assembly. Too bad you can’t order ahead—our only quibble.
Better get there early to take advantage of today’s selection.
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Best Lebanese
District
River Street,
Troy
Al Baraki and
Marmora Café are within a block of each other on River Street. Both
places serve incredible Lebanese takeout, but don’t take our word
for it; carve some time out of your weekend antiques shopping and
stop into one of these oh-so-excellent eateries for some kibbeh
or shawarma. Marmora Café has more of a coffee-shop atmosphere,
while Al Baraki has a larger menu and a diner feel, but with solely
counter service.
Best Diner
Miss Albany
Diner
893 Broadway,
Albany
Jane and Clifford
Brown have informed the place with caring, creative personalities
so that this old-school, railroad-car diner perseveres well into
the dineraunt age with an inventive menu and cheerful service. And
there’s our favorite brunch item, MAD Irish Toast, with its pecan
cream cheese filling and butterscotch-whisky sauce.
Best Cheap
Eats
Esperanto
6 1/2 Caroline
St., Saratoga Springs
A reliable
mainstay any time it’s open; a world unto itself late at night,
when bleary-eyed Saratogians hurry in for a doughboy (a house special;
think portable pocket pizza) or a pizza slice or one of the International
specials, be it Mexican, Thai, Indian, or—who knows.
Best
Cheaper Eats
Sam’s Home
Cooking
222 Lark St.,
Albany
OK, we don’t
know exactly when Sam’s is open, but seriously, where else can you
get a whole pork chop dinner for $3.50 and friendly service to boot?
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Best
Wings
Lynn’s Uptown
Sports Tavern
15 Colvin Ave.,
Albany
Everyone knows
the story of the Buffalo Wing, and that Jessica Simpson really thinks
buffalos have wings (wink, wink) and that Homer Simpson eats wings
bone et al. The Buffalo-style chicken wing has varied in its recipe,
size and crispiness since its inception. But we find that for the
wing to reach its perfect flight, all things need to be equal. The
sauce, spicy but not combustible, the right amount of vinegar, not
overpowering, and a hint of sweet. The cooking: fried but not overdone,
crispy juicy outside with moist inside. And the wing part itself;
not too small and not a drumstick, just enough meat to accent the
sauce. Voila, the perfect chicken wing. You can find the perfect
wing at this local sports tavern, along with a warm, friendly atmosphere.
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Warm,
fresh and tasty: Perreca’s Bakery.
photo:Alicia
Solsman
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Best Bread
Perreca’s
33 N. Jay St.,
Schenectady
The coal-fired
brick oven was made in Troy over a century ago, and we’re guessing
that it hasn’t been cold since the day Perreca’s opened shortly
thereafter. The crusty loaves, made daily, are available at the
storefront and at selected (but few) specialty shops in the area.
A loaf of this bread, some cheese and tapenade, and you’re all set.
Best Bagels
Bagel Bite
544 Delaware
Ave., Albany
Oh the poor
can-you-make-it-little-bigger Americanized bagel. Bagels are supposed
to be a certain size, density and flavor. They needn’t be the size
of a life preserver, nor should they be puffed with air, and they
need to taste like dough. This place has it all going on, plus they
have the bialy—different than a bagel, bialys are baked and then
onion, garlic and other spices kind of fill the hole. The Bagel
Bite is what bagels are and should always be, plus they have a full
complement of homemade cream cheeses, lox and deli meats.
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Best Beer Selection
Mahar’s
1110 Madison
Ave., Albany
Last we checked,
there were about two gazillion different beers to choose from at
Mahar’s—and those were just the bottled brews. Arranged by style
or country of origin, this relaxed, neighborhood-style pub’s “beer
tour” allows you to track the beers you’ve sampled and rewards certain
milestones of brew consumption (125 will get you your own mug, engraved
however you like and stored behind the bar). While it’s no secret
that Mahar’s tends to favor beer-savvy clientele, as long as you’re
willing to put down your Coors Light and try a Hoegaarden White
you’re welcome at the bar. Oh, and some words for the wise: If you
want to stay on the bartenders’ good sides (and trust us, you don’t
want to be on their bad sides), check your rowdy, college-bar habits
at the door—this isn’t your typical beer joint.
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Best Brew Pub
Malt River
Brewing Company
Latham Circle
Mall, Latham
The brewpub
craze has waned a bit, and now the area has only a few really good
ones left. This was a very tough decision, but we still have to
give the nod to brewmaster “Goose” Gosling. He is adventurous at
his craft and is willing to try different techniques in bringing
his brews to the public, even though it may mean dumping a whole
batch if it didn’t quite work. He also has a handle on the more
traditional ales and porters, and their stout—it’s a meal.
Best Caesar
Salad
Cornell’s Restaurant
39 North Jay
St., Schenectady
This is rib-sticking
Caesar salad, with a dressing that is bright and lemony, in spite
of its heft. You might want to ask to have it lightly dressed and
plan on a simple entrée—or none at all.
Best Outdoor
Dining
Nicole’s Bistro
at Quackenbush
25 Quackenbush
Square, Albany
There is something
about dining alfresco that just makes the food taste a little better.
The garden at this popular restaurant is an oasis in the middle
of downtown. The table spacing is perfect for romantic conversation,
and the atmosphere, complete with fresh herbs and flowers, is lovely.
An occasional trucker on I-787 can break the silence every once
in a while, but you are in the middle of downtown after all. Enjoy
the serenity and some wonderful food.
Best Outdoor
Drinking
The Adelphi
Hotel
365 Broadway,
Saratoga Springs
When you walk
into the lobby of this vintage Victorian hotel, you’ll feel as though
you traveled back into the Gatsby era. As you pass the beautiful
antique furniture and stroll into their back patio, you’ll have
left all your troubles and cares up front. Relax and enjoy this
beautiful setting and a healthily poured cocktail. Win, lose, or
draw, it’s a great place to be in Saratoga.
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Best Martini
Carmine’s
818 Central
Ave., Albany
Yes we know,
this is a very highly regarded restaurant, but a cocktail before
dinner is the best way to prepare for what’s to come. Martinis,
and cocktails in general, have gained in popularity over the recent
years and, yes, making the perfect martini has eluded most new-school
mixologists. The perfect martini is quality ingredients—Boodles
Gin or Bombay Sapphire (both available here) are the best. Just
a hint of Vermouth, actually less than a hint, a smidge, a whisper
even less if possible. The temperature, chilled, not frozen, and
the glassware should be of ample size, but not a fish bowl. And
regardless of what James Bond says, stirred, not shaken. That’s
how they get it done at Carmine’s. Oh, and the food’s pretty darn
good too.
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Best Bloody
Mary
Lark Tavern
453 Madison
Ave., Albany
There’s a Bloody
Mary, and then there’s a Bloody Mary. The Lark serves the
latter—it’s spicy, fresh, and very tasty; a fine accompaniment for
breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Wait, are we giving away too much here?
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